7 days in Japan, what to know before you book

The order question (Tokyo before Kyoto)

Tokyo first, every time. You land jet-lagged and the dense urban energy of Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Tsukiji absorbs that mismatch. By day four the body has adjusted, you take the Shinkansen south, and Kyoto becomes the slower, contemplative second half. Doing it in reverse means arriving at the temple city while still tired, and finishing the trip on the loudest streets in the world.

4 nights Tokyo, 3 nights Kyoto is the right split for 7 days. A Nara or Arashiyama day trip fits inside the Kyoto portion. Anything tighter and you sacrifice either the proper omakase night or the Fushimi Inari sunrise.

Cash, cards, and the 7-Eleven rule

Japan is the only G7 economy where cash still beats cards in around 30 percent of restaurants, especially small izakaya, ramen counters, and old shops. Pull yen from a 7-Eleven ATM (they take foreign cards 24/7); bank ATMs often do not. Plan on ¥50,000 to ¥80,000 per person for the trip in cash, plus card for hotels, departments, and most restaurants.

Suica or PASMO via Apple Pay runs every train, bus, vending machine, locker, and konbini. Add it on the flight. The IC card from Tokyo also works in Kyoto, Osaka, and most cities; do not buy a regional one.

The JR Pass trap (why most foreigners overpay)

The 7-day JR Pass jumped from ¥29,650 to ¥50,000 in October 2023. The Pass covers any JR train including the Shinkansen, but at the new price the break-even point is 3 round-trip Shinkansen journeys plus heavy local-train use.

For a 7-day Tokyo + Kyoto + Nara trip, the maths goes against the Pass. Tokyo to Kyoto one-way on the Nozomi Shinkansen is ¥14,170 (the Pass does not cover Nozomi, it covers the slower Hikari at the same price). The round trip is ¥28,340. Add Nara from Kyoto (¥800) and Tokyo local trains (Suica) and you still come in under ¥35,000 per person. The Pass costs ¥50,000.

When the Pass does win: Tokyo + Kyoto + Hiroshima, or any 10-night itinerary with 3+ long-distance trains. Otherwise buy individual tickets at the JR Ticket Office or through SmartEX online.

What foreigners get wrong on a Japan trip

A few common tells:

Tipping. Do not. Leaving cash on a table will get the server chasing you down the street to return it.

Over-planning days, trying to do Shibuya, Shinjuku, Asakusa, and Ueno in the same day. Each ward is a small city; two anchor neighbourhoods per day with one transit hop is the local pace.

Buying the JR Pass on instinct, after the 2023 hike it loses money on a Tokyo + Kyoto itinerary.

Photographing real geiko on Hanamikoji street in Kyoto, the city now fines tourists for it. Walk Pontocho at 6pm instead.

Standing on the wrong side of the escalator. Tokyo, stand left. Osaka and Kyoto, stand right. The locals notice instantly.

Eating sushi at the Tsukiji Outer Market expecting the famous Toyosu tuna auction; the wholesale market moved to Toyosu in 2018, the outer market is street food.

The Shinkansen between (and the seat choice)

The Nozomi (fastest) runs Tokyo to Kyoto in 2h15. The Hikari (covered by the JR Pass) takes 2h45. The Kodama (slowest, covered by the Pass) takes 3h45. Difference in price is zero on the Nozomi vs Hikari at full fare.

Reserve seats for groups of 4+, on the right side facing forward (D seats) for the Mt Fuji view between Yokohama and Shizuoka. Trains leave every 8 to 12 minutes, no need to book months ahead unless travelling during cherry blossom or Golden Week (late April).

Suitcases over 160cm linear measurement need a reserved oversized-luggage seat (free, booked at the ticket office). Otherwise the conductor charges ¥1,000 and gives you a long lecture.

Where to base the crew

Tokyo: Shinjuku for transit and food density (every line stops there) or Shibuya for after-dark energy. Both work; do not split the crew across hotels.

Kyoto: Karasuma or Kawaramachi (downtown) is the workhorse base, walkable to Nishiki Market, the Kamo riverside, and trains for day trips. Most groups stay here for the access alone.

For a Hiroshima or Hakone add-on, base near Tokyo Station (Marunouchi) or near Kyoto Station for Shinkansen-easy mornings.

The booking timeline

Six months out, hotels for both cities (4-person rooms vanish in spring and autumn).

Eight weeks out, the headline omakase in Tokyo, any famous kaiseki in Kyoto. Most require an intermediary if you do not speak Japanese; hotel concierge is the trick.

Three weeks out, teamLab Planets timed entry, Shibuya Sky last-slot for sunset, and the Saiho-ji moss garden in Kyoto (by-mail application only).

A week out, casual dinners (do not over-plan), a day-trip tour to Nikko or Hakone, and the Limousine Bus from Narita.

Walk-in: ramen counters, the izakaya alleys, standing bars, public sentos, and most temples.