Hidden gems in Lisbon, the city beyond Belém and Time Out

Graça and Penha de França, the residential viewpoints

The miradouro of Senhora do Monte sits in Graça and gives you a 270° view of the city without the crowd at Santa Luzia or São Pedro de Alcântara. Walk through Graça to Penha de França, the neighborhood is residential, the cafes are local, the prices are pre-tourist.

On the Tram 28 route, but get off three stops earlier than every guidebook says.

The actual best seafood (not Ramiro)

Cervejaria Ramiro is excellent, but the line is the line. Alternatives where the food is equal and the wait is 20 minutes:

• -Sea Me (Praça do Príncipe Real area), sushi + Portuguese seafood mashup, no line at 7pm
• -Solar dos Presuntos, old-school Portuguese, cured meats, the dish the locals order is the lobster rice
• -A Cevicheria, Peruvian-Portuguese fusion, queue of 30 min but moves fast

Real fado, not dinner-show fado

Most Bairro Alto "fado dinner" places are designed for tourists. Real fado is small, dark rooms with no menu hype. Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto runs nightly, arrive at 9pm, get a small table, eat the bifana, drink the wine, listen.

Mesa de Frades (Alfama) is the elevated version, book ahead, more refined, the singers are the real ones the city talks about.

Estrela, the park nobody visits

Five minutes by tram 28 from Príncipe Real, the Jardim da Estrela is a quiet, leafy park with a bandstand, a duck pond, and the Basílica da Estrela across the street (climb to the dome for a view nobody else in Lisbon knows about). Almost zero tourists. Lunch picnic territory.

Embaixada, the shopping mall hidden in a palace

Príncipe Real has Embaixada, a 19th-century Moorish-Arabic palace turned into a slow-shop with Portuguese designers. Even the courtyard is worth the visit. The Gin Lovers bar in the basement has 100+ gins.

Cemitério dos Prazeres

A walkable cemetery the size of a small village in Campo de Ourique, end of the tram 28 line. It is beautiful, quiet, and home to one of the largest private mausoleums in Europe. Locals walk dogs there. Tourists never come.

LX Factory Sunday market

LX Factory is in every guide, but the Sunday flea market, second-hand books, vintage Portuguese ceramics, sourdough vendors, usually isn't. 10am to 5pm, runs year-round.